Wild Eel ― 2010/06/28

JPY1,200 (about 25cm long, price varies with the size)
This year’s first supply of wild eels started appearing.
It may be a good time to try wild eels as the price is relatively accessible at the moment. The price will skyrocket, or wild eels might even completely disappear from the market by the mid-summer. Why? A particular day of mid-summer (this year it is 26 July) is what I call ‘Eel Day’ when Japanese are supposed to have eel, broiled and seasoned with teriyaki-like sauce, like your Pancake Day.
But unlike the Pancake Day, our Eel Day is not associated with religion.
History books tell us that a reference to eel-eating can be found in a 1200-year old literature, and during the 18th century the Japanese were indoctrinated in a belief that having eel in hot seasons will fend off summer fatigue. This story is said to have been made up by a wise man in order to publicise an eel restaurant. The story spread and rooted down so deeply in people’s mind that the advertisement campaign eventually became one of our customs.
There is another reason why I appreciate wild eels so much.
Statistically, a Japanese person eats five eels a year, most of which are firmed and imported. Actually domestic wild eels account for less than 1% of the our all eel consumptions. So the scarcity makes them look even more attractive.

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