A Fukuokan's Notes from Sapporo

The Third Option

Fri, 06 Mar 2026 19:10:35 +0900

Along with authentic confectioneries such as those at the Sapporo Grand Hotel or Patisserie Frères, and local giants like Rokkatei and Ryugetsu, Sapporo offers me yet another snacking choice: factory stores.

Having discovered a street lined with confectionery factories that have their own shops, I headed to one of them: Ginza Bunmeido, famous for its castella and dorayaki. It was about a 15-minute walk from the local library, navigating a few puddles along the way.

As I drew closer, a sweet scent wafted from the factory.

Upon entering, I was welcomed by three charming ladies in crisp, flight-attendant-style uniforms. It was a pleasant surprise; I had half-expected a grumpy, re-employed former manager in dull coveralls to greet me with a scowl.

At this type of store, you can’t miss the castella offcuts, of course. I also found sets of dorayaki skins, which I naturally grabbed.

There seem to be at least two more stores like this nearby. I can’t wait for the next fine day when I can head out in my sneakers. Or rather, I’d better find a good dentist instead.

Under Expectation, Welcomely

Thu, 05 Mar 2026 09:21:47 +0900

Our first full-month gas bill—covering heating, hot water and cooking—came to a surprising 5,636 yen.

A pleasant shock. It’s much lower than what we used to pay in Fukuoka, where it often hit nearly 20,000 yen (including floor heating), and everyone, without exception, at relocation support offices and estate agencies had warned us to expect over 30,000 yen. (Note: We are living in a 40-year-old flat with no state-of-the-art energy-saving gimmicks at all.)

It turns out that as long as I protect myself with my Uniqlo Ultra Light Down at home, just like I did in Fukuoka, the Sapporo winter is nothing to fear (at least indoors, where every lifeline functions properly). In Fukuoka, my room temperature dropped to 12°C, but here it stays comfortably above 18°C, thanks to very basic double-glazed windows and probably the heat we are "stealing" from our neighbors through the walls, ceilings, and floors.

Today's Little Achievement

Tue, 03 Mar 2026 20:03:12 +0900

The streets are mostly dry now, with piles of melting snow along the sides. You still find some slush here and there, but it’s no longer as dangerously slippery as before.

And... let me brag a little: For the first time since moving to Sapporo in mid-January, I walked to the city center today in normal shoes—no spikes or Vibram soles required! Hooray! It took about 30 minutes, but I’m sure I’ll get there faster once I’m more familiar with the route.

Today's Treat

Mon, 02 Mar 2026 19:26:09 +0900

Coffee and a small steam cake: about 250 yen @Seico Mart

In an attempt to stick to my monthly cafe budget...

Lounge de Coop

Sun, 01 Mar 2026 14:42:30 +0900

One thing I love about Sapporo is that many supermarkets offer free lounges for a quick break while shopping. The lounge at this Coop store, in particular, is fantastic. It’s well-equipped with power outlets, thermal pots, and even a play area for kids (though the vending machines only stock cold drinks).

This space seems to be used much more creatively than you might imagine—it's a place where you can encounter even more "unique" characters than you would at a Starbucks. So far, I’ve spotted:

* An elegantly dressed elderly gentleman preparing instant udon (likely brought from home) using the hot water provided.

* A lady meticulously wiping down every surface she might touch before charging her multiple electronic gadgets.

* A man enjoying coffee he bought at the McDonald’s downstairs (A brilliant idea! I’ve decided to do the same next time).

* A young woman intensely talking into multiple cellphones at once. I couldn’t help but overhear... and let’s just say, I’m not sure those are things you should discuss in public!

It’s a surprisingly exciting experience, all for the price of a single canned coffee.

Old Enough (for a Welfare Visitor)

Thu, 26 Feb 2026 21:01:45 +0900

Shortly after we settled in, a lady knocked on our door. Identifying herself as a "community welfare volunteer," she explained that she visits old people who have recently moved to the neighborhood.

"I check on seniors who might need assistance, and since you BOTH seem to be SENIORS, I wanted to say hello and see if you’re doing okay," she said, with a very polite and professional demeanor. For me, this was the first time I had ever been addressed as "old" right to my face. I mean, I know I am technically a "senior," but a part of me hadn't truly accepted that label yet. You can feel "young at heart" forever—until you are forced to face a bitter reality.

Anyway, after recovering from that initial shock, I took a look at the brochure she left, and felt even more discouraged. It seemed to cry out to me:

* You can still work! (And you should!)

* Do volunteer (unpaid) work for the community!

* Join senior clubs, sports classes, or preventative health activities!

It felt as if what I do these days—walking (wandering) around alone in silence, watching films at home, and avoiding group activities—was being labeled "incorrect."

By the way, how did she know we had moved in? She mentioned she was told to visit by "someone at the municipal office." Well, I know she had good intensions, and perhaps my victim mentality is running high, but I can't help but feel a slight sense of "big brother" watching...

The 240-yen Adventure Saga: Episode I

Tue, 24 Feb 2026 21:06:30 +0900

Although their timetables are by no means conveniently designed, and the aisles can feel a bit cramped with passengers "swollen" in their black down jackets, I find riding the bus in Sapporo to be a safe and delightful way to discover new places. While subways are faster, they hide the city from you. On a bus, you can see the natural ups and downs of the land and really get a feel for how different neighborhoods connect—all for just 240 yen.

The other day, I hopped on a bus to the Fukusumi area.

I was struck by how different the atmosphere felt compared to my own neighborhood; it was calm yet reasonably lively, with the UFO-like Sapporo dome in a distant view.

First, I stopped at a big Donq bakery for an afternoon coffee.

They actually offer an all-you-can-eat bread buffet during lunch, but I stuck to just coffee—partly because I was still stuffed from lunch at home, and partly because my monthly "cafe budget" was running thin!

Afterward, I wandered to the other side of the station and stumbled upon a large farm run by a local agricultural specialist school.

It looks like they sell fresh produce and soft-serve ice cream in warmer seasons, though it was closed for the season when I visited.

After getting slightly lost for a while (thankfully, it wasn't snowing!), I eventually made it to Branch Sapporo Tsukisamu, a suburban outdoor shopping center. There, I picked up a "corn bun" (think an-pan but filled with sweet corn kernels) and scored a pair of pre-owned trousers for 1,600 yen at Second Street.

By the way, the bus was packed both ways, and I had to stand the whole time.

(Many thanks to Gemini for help with polishing this post!)

When Snow Melts...

Mon, 23 Feb 2026 20:35:22 +0900

Once the weather warms and the snow begins to melt, the streets transform into a nightmarish landscape of ice, slush, muddy water, massive puddles, and remnants of snowbanks—a mess I’ve never seen in my life.

The road conditions change with every few steps. To make matters worse, drivers seem completely oblivious to the existence of us pedestrians. They don't even slow down at crosswalks, sending massive splashes of dirty water flying. It’s absolutely impossible to enjoy a leisurely walk while listening to my Walkman.

However, there is a glimmer of hope: the harshest part of the Hokkaido winter seems to be nearing its end (or at least, that’s what my hairdresser told me—and I’m choosing to believe him). Yay!

Cafe Heaven

Sun, 22 Feb 2026 16:53:48 +0900

There are many cafés around our new place. Or rather, we’re surrounded by authentic coffee houses. Of course, there are the usual national chains, but it’s the independent spots—serving delicate sweets and carefully brewed coffee—that are especially appealing.

They’re wonderful, truly. Perhaps a little too wonderful. They feel almost too nice to drop into casually on my way to or from shopping or the library.

For example:

900 yen

At this café, all the tableware is made by Okura Toen—ultra high-end porcelain, at least by my standards.

about 800 yen

At this place, the cream was outrageously good. I nearly swooned.

At both cafés, at 10 o’clock on a snowy weekday morning, I was the only customer. Full table service, warm hospitality—I felt thoroughly welcomed. Considering the quality, the prices are quite reasonable. These days, you have to be prepared to pay over 1,000 yen for a slice of cake and a cup of coffee.

Good, good, good. Almost perfect.

And yet… I find myself wishing for places that are a bit more casual—in atmosphere and in price—so that I can drop in without feeling self-conscious or thinking about the contents of my wallet.

Maybe I’m asking for the impossible. Still, in this neighborhood, even Starbucks feels relatively accessible.

about 680 yen

Starbucks is, well, Starbucks. And the staff sometimes give off a faintly “enlightened” or carefully curated stylish air (not always successfully). But it does feel easy and relaxed. Cost-wise, too.

No Longer Safe Haven

Sat, 21 Feb 2026 20:19:08 +0900

Back in Fukuoka, yet another stabbing incident occurred—this time at the local library I used to visit every week.

A 61-year-old man stabbed two visitors, aged around 80 and 50, and a security guard in his 70s (Yes, in Japan, people of that age sometimes work in this sector, but that's another story).

I was shocked that even the library could become the stage for such a sinister incident. At the same time, part of me had a feeling that it might happen one day in this area, which seems prone to unexplainable crimes, where a socially marginalized person attacks ordinary, innocent people for no particular reason.

Reference: Knife attack at Fukuoka public library leaves 3 injured - The Mainichi

Today’s Treat

Fri, 20 Feb 2026 20:29:20 +0900

Single pancake, a boiled egg and unlimited drinks: 604 yen at Gusto （morning special)

These days, Gusto feels like a more budget-friendly option than Mister Donut for a quick bite.　And there’s a cute little robot serving you!

February Light

Fri, 20 Feb 2026 19:47:58 +0900

Just look at that February light...

Although I have lived in this northern city for only one month, the soft February sunlight feels special, reminding me that the long days of snow and cold are coming to an end.

City View

Wed, 18 Feb 2026 21:21:09 +0900

Snow, a spacious riverbank near the city center, a clear and wide sky and mountains close to the city. It is a view you would never see in Fukuoka. Whoever decided to keep the riverbank this wide must have been a true visionary.

A Muji with a View

Wed, 18 Feb 2026 15:26:36 +0900

A view from a local Muji lounge where you can enjoy a paper cup of cocoa for 90 yen.

After a long, exhausting walk, slipping and sliding through the snow, even ordinary vending machine cocoa felt like a ski-resort treat.

Early-Hours Professionals

Wed, 18 Feb 2026 14:50:20 +0900

Here in Sapporo, I have realized that there are some extremely demanding professions. I would say one of the toughest is early-morning newspaper delivery. Regardless of the weather—whether it is bitterly cold or heavily snowing—newspapers arrive at our doors at three o’clock in the morning, no matter which floor we live on or whether the building has an elevator. Every single day, without exception—even on the morning after a general election or after a night of heavy snowfall.

Likewise, snow-clearing operations are carried out before the city begins its daily activities. Snowplows work tirelessly through the night, and their operators must stay awake until morning. Yet their hard work can easily be undone by fresh snowfall the next day. What a punishing task!

I believe newspaper carriers in Sapporo should be paid more than those working in warmer, snow-free regions, especially those who simply drop papers into ground-floor mailboxes. And I sometimes wonder what snow shovellers do during the warmer seasons. Do they sell ice cream? Repair bicycles?