A Fukuokan's Notes from Sapporo

Moving Out

Thu, 27 Aug 2026 14:27:50 +0900

This blog is being moved.

As this platform may terminate its service　（no definite plan has been announced, though) , I am moving some Sapporo-related entries to the following site:

A Fukuokan in Sapporo

As for the Fukuoka-related parts, I will keep them for memories' sake and withdraw them from the internet (I might post some of them to another site, but I reckon the possibility is extremely low.　Man cannot live by blog alone, you see.)

I have also started a new and experimental (for me) project, translating modern Japanese classical literature into English on note.

At the moment, I haven't decided when or whether I will close this blog, but there will be no new entries here anymore.

Thank you for visiting this blog for such a long time. I sincerely appreciate your loyal and warm readership for over 15 years.

See you at my new blog!

Citrus Solution

Sat, 15 Aug 2026 11:26:43 +0900

August seems to be the time when all kinds of fresh produce are available all at once. I enjoy a bounty of fruits, such as watermelon, melons, strawberries, and blueberries, as well as vibrant vegetables.

The only shortcoming of a Sapporo summer is that certain fruits are hard to come by. I have hardly seen figs, loquats, and particular varieties of citrus, such as yuzu, kabosu, sudachi, and domestically grown lemons.

My hairdresser, who is practically my only source of useful local information in Sapporo, told me that people in Hokkaido don't use citrus nearly as much as people from Kyushu do. He even said he doesn't use it on grilled fish. Incredible!

Yes, imported lemons and limes are available at all supermarkets, but they are forbiddingly expensive due to Japan's weakened yen. Mikans are widely available, too, but domestically grown garnish citrus feel completely out of reach. They are either virtually nonexistent or absurdly expensive—especially for someone coming from a place where you can get 10 kabosu for a mere 198 yen.

After some failed attempts (e.g., hauling them back in my luggage from Fukuoka, or trying to stretch the precious juice by mixing it with vinegar), I have finally decided to rely on bottled juice.

It is still rather pricey (398 yen for 150ml), but I told myself it will at least end the agony of standing in front of supermarket shelves, wasting time debating whether the price is worth it.

My Neighbourhood Excursion: 2-2

Thu, 13 Aug 2026 11:22:27 +0900

...continued from the previous post.

After visiting the Hokkaido Governor's Official Guesthouse, I headed over to the Migishi Kotaro Museum of Art located just across the guest house's huge back garden.

I wasn't completely alone, but the small-ish museum (by Hokkaido standards) wasn't crowded at all. I could comfortably take my time looking at the artworks and the architecture itself.

Of course, I also took a break with a coffee float (my first of the year!) in the lovely cafe section with a great view of the green.

I’m not in a position to judge his artworks, but I noticed that the frames for the paintings were extremely elaborate.

Was the painter rich enough to decorate his works with expensive frames, or did later generations try to glorify the works with luxury frames?

By the way, there was a rather mysterious condominium building on the other side of the road. A spick-and-span tower apartment rising behind a lush garden encircled by classic-looking gates.

Gemini said it was a high-end rental apartment complex. Hmm, I simply can't imagine what kind of people can afford to live there, or what kind of strict criteria they use for residents!

The day's expenses:

- Subway: 500 yen for a round trip

- Art museum admission: 510 yen

- Coffee float: 750 yen

Walking distance: 9,571 steps

My Neighbouhood Excursion: 2-1

Wed, 12 Aug 2026 14:34:32 +0900

One of the great things about Sapporo is that the central area is quite compact, so you can easily reach many spots by subway and a short walk.

One morning, I decided to visit the Hokkaido Museum of Modern Art.

But when I got there 15 minutes before opening, there was already a long queue of children and their grandparents (presumably)--I completely forgot it was the middle of the Bon holidays...

What I saw there was pear trees bearing fruit in the front garden.

So, I gave up on going inside and went to the Governor's Official Residence right next door instead.

At the time, I was the only visitor. I was totally unleashed! I didn't even come across a single person during my entire stay. The building itself was lovely, with elaborate details such as doorknobs,

uniquely shaped doors,

and chandeliers.

Meanwhile, a variety of memorabilia brought in by the visitors added an unexpected charm, giving it the look of an old-fashioned souvenir shop or my family home in the 1970s.

However, seeing how the visitors were left to wander around so freely, I started to wonder: is this place really safe from terrorists? You could easily plant explosives anywhere, leave rubbish, or even a cat... I know there must be numerous CCTV cameras and security systems in place, but it just made me realize how trusting the people of Sapporo are!

to be continued to 2-2.

Fresh from the Field

Mon, 10 Aug 2026 14:26:26 +0900

　　　　　　　　　　　　　700 yen in total (Daikon: free)

There is a vegetable farm near a local library and subway station (the third stop from the city centre!).

Recently, I found that they sell their produce directly to anyone who visits in the morning between 5 am and 10 am.

Today I finally managed to get there by 9 and got vegetables literally fresh from the ground—unlike other farm stands, this particular farm allows (or forces?) visitors to harvest everything by themselves. But don't worry, someone (quite possibly the farm owner) is right there to instruct you, and simple map and instructions were available at the edge of the field.

At first, I was completely at a loss, as I didn't know where the veggies were hiding in the field. But gradually, my eyes adjusted. Did you know how courgettes grow, by the way?

The prices weren't clearly stated, though they seemed to have a price list somewhere in the farmers' head. What I vaguely learned from talking with her was:

- Regardless of the size, courgettes are 200 yen each,

- A unit of string beans (which they call "sasage") comes in bundles of 10 pieces,

- Sweetcorn is harvested professionally upon request (250 yen each),

- You can pull out daikon yourself, though they vary in size.

She also told me that her family had never used chemicals on their farmland ever since the first generation settled (入植した）on this land.

Settled... I was a little dumbfounded to hear her use that word so casually.

Who Reads This? — A Mysterious Local Magazine

Sat, 08 Aug 2026 15:04:16 +0900

There are quite a few magazines focusing on local issues, such as horseracing, fishing, food. As far as I know, every single library stocks a couple of these locally published magazines. They are almost always available, meaning hardly anyone takes them home, whereas national magazines are rarely available for loan.

Among these publications, the most mysterious one is "Zaikai Sapporo" (I would translate it as "Sapporo business community").

I have never seen any of its back issues on loan. Even elderly gentlemen who seem to be regulars at the library and eagerly read newspapers don't seem to have an appetite for it. Without exception, every issue sits on the shelf.

Out of curiosity and in the hope of finding useful local details—since I mainly get my local news from supermarket flyers—I borrowed a copy. I found the contents surprisingly varied. A single issue covers:

- Local government news mainly on newly appointed managers,

- Local corporate updates, featuring salary comparisons by job category,

- Interviews with local figures, including entrepreneurs, entertainers, sports personalities,
- Newly opened and recommended restaurants, mainly in Susukino, never Makomanai.

- Property ownership and investments

...and much more.

It is so broad, almost chaotic. Who is the target audience? I have absolutely no idea, and I didn't find anything useful for myself either. It doesn't matter to me who took management positions in the local government (though an article about the flamboyant mayor of Asahikawa was interesting, reminding me of his counterpart in Fukuoka).

I wish my local library would subscribe to Geijutsu Shincho or UP instead. That might actually attract new and younger visitors, or me, at least.

Reserved

Thu, 06 Aug 2026 16:03:26 +0900

When taking the subway, I am always impressed, or sometimes perplexed, by how self-disciplined Sapporo people are. There is neither rubbish nor the smell of urine at all in the long corridors connecting the station entrances to the platforms. Although slightly worn out, they are kept spotlessly clean all the time.

What's more, no one dares to sit on the "Special Seats" for vulnerable people—almost never!

I don't know why, but maybe the title "専用席 (dedicated/exclusive seats)," rather than "優先席 (priority seats)," makes all the difference.

Me? I believe I am eligible to sit here, because of my white hair, and am pleased to exercise my privilege... only when there is no one around.

Walking under Green Leaves

Tue, 04 Aug 2026 14:18:59 +0900

It's hard to believe that this beautiful pedestrian path gets buried deep under heavy snow in winter. Nothing stays the same...

All at Once

Tue, 04 Aug 2026 13:22:32 +0900

On the streets, all kinds of flowers are blooming at once, creating spectacular views.

In relatively comfortable weather (27℃, 57% humidity), hunting for these flowers while taking a walk is one of Sapporo's charms I've discovered.

This morning, the pavements were lined with hydrangeas,

Casablanca lilies,

roses,

hollyhocks,

marigolds,

pumpkins,

something I think is fennel,

rose of Sharon,

sunflowers, and even cosmos

—early-summer and late-summer flowers are all putting on a show side by side.

Meanwhile, the leaves and berries of rowan trees have already begun to turn red,

telling, or warning, us autumn is approaching.

Local Celebs #1

Sat, 25 Jul 2026 21:30:04 +0900

Every time I get on the subway, I run into this guy on the train door, smiling and apparently promoting Hokkaido rice. I see him all the time, but I have absolutely no idea who he is.
And I don't even know what the Hokkaido word "食べらさる" means.

A Small Pleasure

Fri, 24 Jul 2026 20:40:41 +0900

In mid-June, there was a small concert featuring woodwinds.

Of course, I went with great excitement and thoroughly enjoyed the live oboe sound!

Paper tickets were still available. What a pleasant surprise!

To be honest, I felt a bit of that "local celeb" vibe during the talk, but it was all forgotten once the music started.

Traveling Back to Fukuoka 4: Farewell to Babylon

Thu, 23 Jul 2026 21:12:17 +0900

It was hot right up until the moment we left Fukuoka.

I hate to keep talking about the weather, but it reached 36°C—giving us a perfect excuse to indulge in Yakiniku. Let me show off our once-in-a-decade luxury!

At the airport, the ground crew were all taking shelter in the shade under the wings and vehicles. I just hoped those spots provided them with at least a little relief from the scorching heat.

Traveling Back to Fukuoka 3: Another Generic Redevelopment

Thu, 23 Jul 2026 20:34:33 +0900

ONE FUKUOKA BUILDING is regarded as the centerpiece of Fukuoka's urban redevelopment projects, led by the show-off mayor.

Because of this project, many familiar local names, including Tohji the stationer, were forced to move out. Some of them even closed their businesses.

So, I squeezed a visit to the building into my already packed schedule, assuming there would be a lineup of the latest, most stylish, and most state-of-the-art shops and restaurants... only to find everything I had seen somewhere before.

Bshop, Margaret Howell, Agnès b., Nakagawa Masashichi Shoten... and even AEON in the basement.

However hard they try to look stylish, AEON is AEON. What's more, a much bigger store is within walking distance, just a couple of blocks away.

There were already some vacant spaces, just one year after its opening with a massive fanfare.

Is this what they wanted to accomplish by ousting long-established local stores? Ironically, the new building houses Ito-ya instead of Tohji, which is now operating a few blocks away.

Because of this senseless redevelopment, I finally decided to break away from my attachment to the city that doesn't seem to respect local businesses.

Traveling Back to Fukuoka 2: A Nostalgic and Disappointing Stay

Wed, 22 Jul 2026 19:34:49 +0900

During our trip to Fukuoka, we stayed at a hotel in the very heart of the city, and the view from the room was great.

In fact, I have witnessed the history of this building since the early 1970s when it was known as the Tokyu Hotel.

You can still see traces of its heyday, such as the former underground arcade that once housed high-end shops and restaurants (the area is now off-limits). This, I guess, is the remains of the staircase leading to the basement.

Beyond that, a few other reminders of 1970s glamour remain untouched throughout the property.

However, frustratingly, the current management doesn't seem to respect this legacy. Instead, they appear to be trying hard to rebrand it as a low-budget hotel targeting international tourists who view Japan as a cheap destination, rather than domestic travelers who wish to stay at a decent hotel at a decent price, a decision that left me feeling sad and deeply discouraged. ...Not to mention the 2,000-yen breakfast buffet full of apparently pre-packaged food, where it seemed no actual cooking took place in the kitchen.

If I were running the hotel, I would have kept the renovation to a minimum, and invited surviving local brands, such as Sailer, Chidoriya, or Fukushin-ro to set up their branches. I would have also restored the Taiyo Gekijo cinema in the basement. I believe this is far from a wild dream. As the current operator is one of the most powerful companies in Fukuoka, every plan above should be feasible.

Traveling Back to Fukuoka 1: the Humid City

Wed, 22 Jul 2026 16:07:23 +0900

A couple of weeks ago, I went back to Fukuoka for the first time in six months.

It was just hot, hot, hot. So hot that I wondered how I had survived such summers here for the past two decades.